Dinner for two on San Cristobal for under $5!

If you visit the Galapagos Islands, then you’ll probably visit the island of San Cristobal, since it’s one of two islands that has an airport.

I visited the island on a 10 day multi-activity, island hopping, land based tour last September. One of the biggest things I enjoy about traveling is trying new foods and my experience on San Cristobal did not disappoint!

Shortly after landing in the Galapagos, our group jumped on our bikes and went for a ride. We drove up a to a local look out point where we took in the panoramic view of the Pacific Ocean towards Santa Cruz, Floreana and Santa Fé Islands. We then biked downhill, passing through the village of El Progresso into the township of Puerto Barequizo Moreno (I must admit downhill biking is my favourite kind!) As the sun started setting on our first day in the ‘enchanted islands’ we headed back to our hotel, and that’s where the food part of this story beings!  As we glided into town, our face’s glowing from the day’s adventure, just before we reached our hotel our noses and stomachs were reminded that it was almost dinner time, and somewhere in the town, something good was being cooked.

I asked our local guide Zambo where the mouth watering smell was coming from and he told me it originated from one of the best places to get a good cheap dinner on the island, need he say more? Not a chance, being a budget conscious traveller my wallet and stomach got excited!

There is no name to this ‘restaurant’ since it’s basically a few portable tables and BBQ. And I can’t tell you the exact location (and even if I could if they decided to move down the street that wouldn’t be too difficult!) But I’ve always found things that you have to work a little harder to experience are generally worth the effort. Plus most the time it’s the journey not the destination that’s the adventure, regardless you’ll probably smell it before you see it…let your nose guide you!

This little local gem is located somewhere within walking distance of the hotel Casa Blanca (located on Av. Charles Darwin near the dock). If you head one or two streets up from the water and then south down a few more you’ll find it on a main street, on the side of the road near a small building that looks like an amphitheatre or stage. This is the spot, on a beautiful September evening my husband and I enjoyed a delicious meal while experiencing what I think some visitors miss, which are the people of the Galapagos (remember there’s more to the islands then the wonderful fauna and flora.)

Mama (as we called most South American woman who fed us!) fanned the coals as the chicken cooked. We sat at a table and asked for the “pollo”. Five minutes later a giant plate arrived with enough beans, chicken, rice and salad for 2 people, along with a drink. We tried to savor the evening, enjoying the food and the atmosphere; and then we noticed some of Mama’s other customers drinking what looked like a warm white soup in a plastic cup. We decided to ask what it was and translated that it was milk with corn. We ordered one cup incase it didn’t work out, but after just one sip another cup was ordered. This was South America’s take on rice pudding, but with corn. Sounds weird tastes wonderful! It tasted exactly like warm rice pudding with a hint of cinnamon. In the begining we and even doubted that it was corn and thought maybe we had misunderstood what ‘Mama’ had said. But as we both downed the pudding and as the bottom of the cup started to show we saw clear evidence of corn kernels.  I’ve since discovered this delicious pudding is called morocho de leche .

At the end of the night we realized that by opting out of a touristy dinner we were rewarded with a unique experience. So if you head out to San Cristobal (or anywhere for that matter) in search of ‘Mama’s dinner’, even if you don’t find it, take the time to do something a little different and you’ll most likely have an amazing (if not interesting) experience!